The Smokies

Day 17 

Today we hiked our shortest day of 6.6 miles. We went into Fontana Dam and picked up our first resupply boxes. The hotel that holds them was quite fancy! Thankfully it was their off season so the lobby was full of smelly hikers. I was able to post my last update from their lobby. I should have done more editing I'm sure, but we didn't have the time.

We are staying in a shelter again tonight. I have my ear plugs ready. Last night I ended up setting up my tent by moonlight because the nibbling and squeaking mice kept me awake. There are showers here up the hill so I took my second shower today and washed my clothes on the sink! Lovely day!

Day 18 

We hiked our longest day yet as we entered the Smokies. By hiking such a long day I discovered the wonders of hiking in the evening. The air became crisp and fresh again as the sun sank low in the sky. As the shadows grew longer my energy level increased despite the many miles under my belt that day.

Day 19 

Today was windy! We walked across so many ridges with cross wind. I thought I might get blown off a couple times! The trail in the Smokies has been much more level from side to side. The arches of my feet are much happier. I am having a hard time concentrating tonight as I write. There are a lot of people in the shelter with many cross conversations.

Day 20 

I had the most beautiful views today leading up to Clingman's Dome. The mountains went rolling into the distance in many shades of blue. The forest was nearly glowing green when we entered the spruce trees. There was so much moss growing on the undergrowth and the green canopy above made it feel like a fairy land. The views from Clingman's Dome were not as good, though is was amusing to see all the tourists.

Shelter life tonight was great. We met our first south bounder who left Maine in June. He was very upbeat and had great stories. There was also another ukulele so there was a good variety of music.

Today was the best day on the trail so far and it didn't happen at the highest point on the AT or by crossing the 200 mark. It was natural beauty and people that made today so special.  

Day 21

Another beautiful day in the Smokies! We encountered some amazing trail angels and trail magic at Newfound Gap. We were fed a donut immediately upon arrival shortly followed by hot biscuits and gravy. After that we had grapes and cookies and were given lots of snacks to take with us on the trail. I was especially hungry yesterday, so the extra food was so appreciated! One set of trail angels said they spend a week helping thru-hikers every year for their wedding anniversary! What an amazing thing to do. Thank you!

Today continued to be filled with breathtaking views. It was a chilly, so there were frosted and iced trees on the north side of mountains. I felt like I was walking in and out of a winter wonderland all day.

It is supposed to get below freezing tonight. The shelter is full, the snoring has begun and I hear a mouse nibbling already. It'll be a great night for earplugs!

Day 22

We ate lunch at a beautiful spot today. Leap Frog and I sat on a bunch of logs looking out over the foothills of the Smokies. We could see a couple of towns in the distance, a river, and land that was flat. It was easy to see that we're approaching the edge of the Smokies. I will be sad to leave them tomorrow, they were so beautiful.

Day 23 

We left the Smokies today but not before seeing a bit of wildlife. We saw two pairs of deer this morning on the way out. One stayed around long enough for me to take off my pack, dig out my camera, and take a few pictures. We never did see any bears but I'm okay with that.

Just as we left the Smokies, I Believe (a thru-hiker from last year) and her husband provided us with some trail magic! It was great to see them again and to experience more magic. I Believe gave me a hug when she saw me and is clearly looking our for her fellow female hikers on the trail.

We then hiked on a bit with Shaggy Hobo, Kingfisher, and Ice Cream. With six of us in a row we looked like a hurd of turtles- big packs on our back moving slowly toward our goal.

We made it to Standing Bear Hostel and stopped for food and to restock on a few items. Most hikers were staying there for the night allowing time for laundry, showers, lots of food, and down time. We thoroughly enjoyed our pizzas and other snacks then hiked for a couple more miles to a camping spot. We did a bit of washing up at a stream.  While it's not as good as a shower, it was a big improvement. I must admit that even though it's raining I am enjoying having some personal space in my tent tonight.

Day 24 

Today was the second day on the trail that I have worn rain pants. I would say that is a good indicator of having good luck with weather. I saw the fog rolling in and thought it was a sheet of rain at first, thankfully it wasn't which gave me time to put on my rain gear. It lasted a couple hours, not too shabby.

I was walking down the trail and saw a man walking my way that had passed me earlier in the day. "Going back already?" I asked. "You're heading southbound right?" "No, I'm heading north." "Oh man, I don't know how I got turned around." Glad I kept someone on track today!

Fun tidbit for the day- tuna mixed with horseradish is good.

Day 25 

We hiked 15 miles today and all arrived to the shelter by 4:30. We're definitely getting stronger and picking up our pace a bit.

We had almost the same crew at the shelter tonight but the feel was completely different. It's amazing how much more comfortable everyone feels after 24 hours. So much talking and laughing tonight. We also had a fire and I sang a bit. Heading into Hot Springs tomorrow! Looking forward to a shower, good food, and clean clothes!