The White Mountains

Day 142

I unexpectedly ended up slack packing today. Chameleon and I were planning to rest up and then just hike a few miles out of town. Late morning, after delicious peach pancakes, Betsy suggested we stay another night and slack pack. This worked out fantastic because we hiked more miles than we planned, stayed out of the rain, and took a shower at the end of the day.

The trail walked right through Hanover

Due to slack packing southbound, we crossed the New Hampshire and Vermont border without quite finishing Vermont yet. It was very strange. We still took our goofy pictures and were excited a couple miles later when we had truly finished Vermont. Only two states left!
 

Day 143

This morning Betsy made French Toast for nine hikers that spent the night in her house. How wonderful and delicious! We were able to help stack wood. With so many of us it was a quick job.

 

We got back on the trail late morning. We could tell it was getting cloudy as the woods got darker. We got to a view and were able see a huge cloud front. Half the sky was clear blue and half was ominous storm clouds. As we hiked up Moose Mountain the rain came down. It cleared just as we came to an opening and there was a rainbow arching down into the valley.

Tonight we are staying with a bunch of hikers are staying at The Ice Cream Man's house. The Ice Cream Man is in his 80's and when we arrived he was teaching number of hikers to play croquet. It continues to amaze me how many people open their homes to people thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail.

playing croquet

The rules for Ice Cream Man's House

Day 144

I had such a beautiful view from Cube Mountain this afternoon. I love feeling so alive and invigorated on top of mountains. The fresh air and wind are refreshing and looking out over forests and mountains gives such a different perspective on the area. Seeing the mountains I have hiked stretch out into the distance is empowering. I love this journey I am on.

 

Day 145

My mom came to meet Chameleon and I on the trail today! It was great to see her again and for Chameleon to meet my mom for the first time. We had grilled marinated chicken for dinner after eating lots of veggies and hummus. We sang a bit around the fire and were joined by another camper. It was fun to sing with my mom because we know all the same songs! Unfortunately I was exhausted and couldn't stay awake as long as I would have liked. It is so difficult to stay awake after dark.

 

Day 146

I hiked Mount Mousalauke today! My mom joined us for the first couple of miles then turned back as we continued. In the morning I saw a number of northbound thru-hikers slack packing south. They raved about the views and were very positive. This was great to hear because the elevation profile for the hike looked rather intimidating.

showing my mom a shelter and a log book

The view from the top was one of the best on the trail thus far. It was a 360°view with mountains in every direction. I couldn't see Mount Washington because it was is the clouds but there were plenty of others.

 

The hike ended with 1.5 miles of a very steep down. It took quite a long time and I was happy not to be wearing my full pack. My mom met us im the parking lot with watermelon. What a treat!

Day 147

We all packed up car this morning and had a hearty breakfast before being dropped off on the trail. It was great to see my mom and to share stories and pictures of trail life!

 

Shortly after leaving the parking lot we completed 1800 miles of the trail. We have come so far. Progress today was slow. I was getting frustrated even though I have been told so many times that the White Mountains are difficult. I'm so accustomed to hiking a certain pace but it just not possible with all the rocks, roots, and steep ups and downs. I'm sure it'll take a few days to get used to the new pace. I have to remember I'm still moving forward and making progress while enjoying the mountains.  

 

Day 148

Tonight there was a beautiful sunset over a mountain ridge. The orange sun was sinking below a bank of clouds and bathing the forest in red light. It had been so long since I was high enough to see the sun set rather than being stuck in a valley.

 

This morning there were some very steep climbs. How steep? At times the next part of the trail was in front of my face rather than in front of my feet. Thankfully the view was worth the effort. The sky was clear blue and I was able to see all the mountains I had hiked the past few days. It is rewarding to be able to see my progress so clearly.
 

Day 149

What a beautiful day! This morning I hiked over Franconia Ridge. I was above tree line for a couple miles amd the views were fantastic. I could see the last three days worth of hiking again and it was even more impressive than yesterday. I can't get over how beautiful the White Mountains are.

 

Chameleon and I arrived at Galehead Hut around 6:30 hoping that work for stay would be available. We were thrilled when they said yes. After the guests ate we were free to eat the leftovers! It was so nice to eat a salad, beef brisket, and dessert! I will have to stay a bit late tomorrow after breakfast to do my work. Chameleon cleaned the freezer tonight so she's free to go.
 

Day 150

Last night the wind howled outside the hut all night. I was thankful to be inside even though I didn't sleep all that well. My work for stay involved refolding blankets for the bunks and sweeping. What a deal!

The hike up the mountain was directly into the clouds and rain. A couple miles into the day my boots were completely soaked through which then made my hike a bit easier because I walked right through all the puddles and mud.

I'm sleeping in a shelter tonight. I was so happy there was room because neither Chameleon nor I wanted to set up tents in the rain.

Day 151

Today was an easy day. I hiked a few miles downhill in increasingly sunny weather. At the road crossing Chameleon and I hitched a few miles down the road so we could have cell service. Chameleon then called the Yellow Deli to come pick us up. Amazingly enough one of the members of the community is from my hometown! We had both been in the marching band and knew some of the same teachers from the high school.

We spent the afternoon in Lancaster getting our resupply and relaxing. The Yellow Deli community invited us to have dinner with them which was lovely. There was lots of fresh food, laughter, and children. One of the kids brought me a ukulele to ask me to tune it. After doing so they asked me to sing. There were so many children gathered around with parents too! The moment really made me miss being a music teacher.

Day 152

Tonight there was a beautiful sunset! The sun was shining through light rain creating pink and orange curtains throughout the mountains.

We had a late morning start after the shuttle dropped off all the hikers. The weather turned out well, just a few sprinkles late in the day. I had been nervous that Webster Cliffs would be wet and slippery but they were dry! I did put both trekking poles away and was using my hands to pull myself up. The cliffs were not as bad as I had anticipated. I never feared for my life like I did in Lehigh Gap!

Day 153

I sumitted Mount Washington today! The weather was clear the whole way up which was amazing in itself. I felt very accomplished having completed another milestone on the trail.

 

The summit itself was a bit of a disapointment. As I was approaching the summit I felt like I was walking to a space station. There were antennas, weather gear, and buildings that looked so out of place. The terrain was completely rocky and barren too. There were people everywhere and we had to wait in line to take our picture with the sign. We did have perfect weather though! 

We were able to get work for stay at Madison Hut. The food was great and there was plenty of it. I scrubbed down the walls under the sink and made them shine. Shortbus and Turbo were there too.

 

Day 154

The climb down from Madison Hut felt like the longest three miles on the trail thus far. The first section was above tree line and all rocks. These were fairly large, angular, rough rocks without a path. Tall cairns (rocks piles indicating the trail) marked the general direction to walk but it was a free for all on choosing how to reach the next cairn. Needless to say it was slow progress.

I am so tired I am about to got to bed and it isn't even eight o'clock yet. I hope I can catch up on some sleep!

Day 154

I slept great last night. I could hear cars from a road so I put in ear plugs. Then I got nervous that I wouldn't hear Chameleon if she said something or any animals (aka bears) if they were around. I opted for one ear plug and surprisingly it worked great!

Today seemed to go by quite fast. The morning began with a climb up Wildcat Mountain. For a section I put my poles away because my hands were much more useful pulling myself up over rocks. We met a southbound hiker who was carrying extra food to give away to other hikers as trail magic.  Hikers never carry food to give away, it just weighs too much! We talked for a bit and found out he was from Romania.  I told him my mom had been there because she loves folk dancing. He then took out his iPod and played some Romanian music for me. If only we had been staying at the same shelter I could have done some folk dancing on the trail!

Looking back on Mount Washington

Late afternoon we left a hut knowing we could get water on the trail on our way to finding a camping spot. As we neared the top of the next mountain we got worried. Our guidebook had said there was water but there wasn't. I had less that a liter and the next listed water as in six miles. Not good. Thankfully a couple miles later water was trickling next to the trail. We filled our water bladders, cooked dinner, then found our camping spot. It is a legit stealth spot. We are far from the trail, not visible, but relatively level.

Day 155
The day was a bit easier than I had anticipated. At each view we came to it was easy to see that the worst of the Whites were behind us and the mountains ahead look a bit less intimidating.

At the end of the day we came to a shelter and were resting our feet as we were decided whether to head into town tonight, which meant walking two more miles, or waiting until the morning. As we sat there a weekend hiker talked to us a bit and was impressed that we had walked there all the way from Georgia. A few minutes later he came back with snacks and beer for us! We enjoyed our cold drinks, extra food, then felt rejuvenated enough to finish two miles so that we could have a full resting day tomorrow. We called the Yellow Deli, they picked us up, and now we're ready for bed with a roof over our heads.

 

Vermont!

Day 132

The luxuries of being hosted through Connecticut and Massachusetts ended today when Elmer dropped us off on the trail. Thanks so much for hosting us! It was great to meet Weedeater's family and see Stormcloak again. Back to setting up camp every night and cooking our own meals.

Chameleon and I hiked into Vermont this morning and completed 1600 miles shortly after lunch! The trail has certainly dried out a lot. Hikers ahead warned me that Vermont was very wet and muddy. There was still a lot of mud, but thick enough to step on without soaking my shoes. It rained a bit at night so it will be interesting to see what tomorrow is like. 

Day 133 

I enjoyed a great cookout today put on by the Green Mountain Club. So nice to eat a hot burger with all the fixings as well as veggies and fruit! Thank you! I didn't even eat my own lunch today because I wasn't hungry after the hiker feed.

I had a great view from the top of a fire tower. It was wonderful to see so many mountains fading into the distance. It was slightly hazey, creating a nearly monochromatic scene.

Tonight Chameleon and I are camping on our own. The area we found is quite small, lumpy, and full of roots. We stopped because it was getting close to dark and we wanted to make sure to have time to hang the bear bag. For some reason there a lot of flies in between my tent and my fly. I'm curious to see how I sleep tonight.

Day 134 

My hike today ended with a swim in Stratton Pond. The pond was serene in the early evening with the sun lowering ahead of me as I swam into the open water. I could have stayed for hours.

I had another beautiful panoramic view from a fire tower today. The top of the tower was all enclosed with glass and sounded very strange when the wind blew through the cracks. I enjoyed the views much more a level lower in the open air.

Tonight a southbound hiker and I played a bit of music by the fire. It would have been fun to play longer but it was already past nine o'clock, long past my usual hiker bedtime.

Day 135 

I have walked 3/4 of the Appalachian Trail! I keep picturing a pie on my head with one quarter missing. I'm getting closer and closer to Katahdin!

I stopped to have lunch at a fancy shelter today. There were glass windows and a wood stove! We didn't have the opportunity to stay there but it was fun to see.

I went into Manchester, Vermont today to resupply. It reminded me so much of small towns in the White Mountains which makes me even more excited to get there!

Day 136 7-28

This morning I hiked up the mountain and found myself on top of a ski mountain. It seemed odd to walk up a ski trail and then see the lift at the top. It was still quite foggy so only the tops of mountains around us were visible.

The woods in Vermont smell so good. There were many fur trees and it smelled like Christmas. The wind has also been refreshing and cool. It makes me so happy to be in the woods.

Today we hiked to a shelter in hopes of swimming. When we arrived we dropped our packs, laid out our mats, and were about to head to the water when a fellow hiker warned us there were leeches in the water. We were so disappointed! We ended up rinsing off but did not swim.

Day 137 

I had one great view today. It looked out over the Rutland airport and across to many mountains. Someone had brought a chair to the top so I relaxed for a bit and let the warm breeze evaporate some sweat out of my clothing.

Overall I really feel that we have had great weather on our hike. After staying with so many people throughout Massachusetts and Connecticut I am feeling extra sweaty and gross. I am redeveloping a ring of chafing around my where my hipbelt sits. Hopefully I will shower in town tomorrow!

Day 138 

500 left until I'm at the top of Katahdin! 

What an afternoon of rain in Vermont! I thought it had ended part way through the afternoon but then it really started coming down. What did I do when the rain got worse? Sang every song I knew with the word rain in it. Chameleon and I had a lot of fun. It really is amazing how easy it can be to change your attitude and outlook on a situation.

We are staying at the Yellow Deli Hostel tonight. After a sweaty then rainy day, a hot shower felt great. They also provided hiker clothes, allowing us to wash and dry everything!

Day 139 

Chameleon and I got back on the trail late morning. The hostel made a great breakfast for all the hikers then Chameleon and I did the dishes after.

 

Today was an adjustment to my pack again. I got my warmer sleeping bag sent back to me because I'll be sleeping in higher elevations. This meant having to reorganize how I load my pack to make everything fit. In a way it felt like the first day out again at Springer Mountain. My pack feels huge!

Tonight was a fantastic night at the shelter. We met a southbounder, a section hiker, two hikers we've seen ahead of us in log books forever, and Rabbit and Gravity. Lots of swapping stories and laughter around a fire. It felt like hanging out with a group of lifelong friends. I am so happy and lucky to be here.

Day 140

I walked through very peaceful woods today. It was very quiet, no birds, no breezes, just the sound of my steps on the soft pine needle covered ground.

There was a great lookout and there was good weather. Beautiful blue skies, white puffy clouds, a cool breeze, warm sun, and mountains in every direction. I believe I was looking at the White Mountains in the distance. I will be there very soon!

Day 141

Yesterday I saw at least a dozen southbound hikers on the trail and today there was only one until the last hour! It was another quiet day. Blackberries were everywhere but not ripe yet. Seeing all the berries throughout my hike has been wonderful.

Tonight we are staying with a trail angel who was recommended by a Village Harmony friend. Her son hiked the Appalachian Trail a few years ago and is currently hiking the Pacific Crest Trail.

Chameleon and I wandered in our last Vermont town for dinner. Tornado Tim came with us, then we met up with Shortbus. There was an outdoor jam session happening which I loved. It made me excited to go contra dancing when I go home and reminded me that I really want to learn to play banjo! 

The Luxuries of Connecticut and Massachusetts

Day 122 

I enjoyed a relaxing zero day today. I spent the morning updating my resume and writing a cover letter. It would be so nice to apply for a job now and have something luned up when I get back! I'll just have to wait and see.

I watched a good movie in the afternoon, "The Book Thief." It took place in Germany during World War II. It was a very touching story and made me cry. I recommend seeing it!

We were treated to dinner and I had spinach pie! It was quite good and came with a big salad. Horray for vegetables!

Day 123 

We had a lovely day of slack packing. My pack felt so light with only water and lunch inside. The weather turned out nice, especially considering the rain that had been predicted (which is why we never check). At the end of the day we were supposed to meet Peg in a town. The trail had a detour because a bridge was under construction (completely gone) so we found ourselves on the wrong side of the river looking at our meeting spot. Thankfully one of the construction workers offered us a ride to the other side.

The town we were staying in had an outdoor concert series in the summer. We went to check it out but it was the children's show. We didn't stay long but it reminded me of my hometown. One last night of showers, good food, and laundry then back on the trail tomorrow.

Day 124 

So many milestones today. I have walked 1500 miles on the AT and walked out of CT. Only 4 states left! The weather today was much cooler than it had been. I never even needed my sweat rag! It was a refreshing day for a hike. I'm wondering if I'll be cold tonight in my 50° sleeping bag.

A friend from college met us in Salisbury and brought us lunch. It was great to see Chris again, even for a short time! Thanks for the ginormous subs!

I walked up another Bear Mountain. The view from the top looked out over a couple lakes and a lot of mountains. The way down was quite steep though thankfully it didn't last long.

Day 125

Today was the worst experience with mosquitoes thus far. For a while I was trying to swat them away but eventually I couldn't take it anymore. When I stopped to get out bug spray the mosquitoes attacked in full force. I couldn't even get the spray out of my bag because I needed both hands to slap them away. Chameleon came to the rescue and slapped the bugs away so I could get the spray. Thankfully it provided much needed relief for the rest of the afternoon.

I got an orange from some trail magic. It was just what I needed to get me to the next road where we were meeting Mufasa and Dory. The timing was perfect and they were coming down the road just as we were walking up. It was great to see trail friends off the trail!

Day 126 

We had an amazing zero with Mufasa and Dory. This morning we relaxed a bit then went to out to lunch and had so much sushi. I got to see Mary Poppins the musical! There friend was Mary Poppins and she was fantastic.

Later we made it out to the lake. We all went out in the boat and went swimming. It felt wonderful to be in the water. Afterwards we went to a small brew fest and enjoyed the tastings. So much fun in just one day. Thanks so much Mufasa and Dory!

Day 127 

Back on the trail today with lots of mosquitoes again. Late in the afternoon it began thundering but thankfully it didn't rain much.

When we arrived at the shelter we were happy to see Rabbit and Gravity! The last time we saw them was in Pennsylvania just before the New Jersey border. The other hiker in the shelter started the same day as Chameleon and I but we had never met him. The trail is crazy that way!

Day 128 

I hiked over the Mass Pike today! That was one of the few places where I knew where the trail met civilization before I hiked it. I remember always checking for hikers whenever my family drove under the bridge on the way to a folk festival in New York. I was excited to be crossing the bridge as a thru-hiker. Someone gave a friendly honk to me too!

Erin picked us up after we resupplied in town. She took me very seriously when I told her we would like to have some fruit. We had blueberries, strawberries, and watermelon! It was great to see her and Matt again!

Day 129 7-21

Today I stopped at the Cookie Lady's house. She gives homemade cookies to thru-hikers. There were also blueberries and raspberries to pick. I must admit I didn't pick any, I was enjoying relaxing under the apple tree in her front yard too much to want to spend more time on my feet.

We seem to be in a bit of a bubble of hikers. There were at least nine through hikers here and I know some were staying at the Cookie Lady's and others went into the next town. I played some ukulele for the first time in a while. There was a fire tonight too!

Day 130

I walked through part of Dalton today. I enjoyed looking at all the houses and flowers. Sometimes it is nice to have a change of scenery! I rang the bell at a friend's house but no one was home.

Weedeater's mom picked us up in town along with The Moons. We resupplied then settled in for the night. Chameleon and I enjoyed the pop-up camper! It was Weedeater's birthday so we all sang. His mom made a great cake depicting him conquering a bear. We couldn't believe he was still at home. We thought he would have gotten back on the trail a while ago.

Day 131 

Stormcloak was home in the morning so we chatted a bit before heading out for a slack packing day. It was fun to see him again too.

Mount Greylock had beautiful views from the top. Dark clouds were rolling in behind us while white fluffy clouds were ahead. The contrast was quite striking. Lots of people were out enjoying the views and picnicking.

The four of us hikers played Phase 10 with Elmer's husband Handyman. It was fun to have a trail family game night. We took a break for cake and pictures. Elmer made us a cake too, celebrating our hike! We finished out our game with a sugar high and laughter.