Rock Encounters

Day 98

There was a lot of different terrain on the trail today. It began with a long hike in the woods. There was a great view then I made my way down to Duncannon where I walked through a hiker based fair then continued for over a mile on town sidewalks (which really made my feet hurt). I crossed the Susquehanna river next to a highway, got off the exit ramp, crossed some railroad tracks with a waiting train, then hiked a steep ascent up the mountain. Near the top I finally hit some of the infamous Pennsylvania rocks. It'll be slow moving when I navigate those in the future.

Chameleon and I chose to stop early today so that we could stay in a shelter tonight. We have been hearing about this big storm for days and figured it would be nice to stay dry.

Day 99 

For the first time I was present when a hiker announced they would be leaving the trail. I am sad to say Madhatter got off the trail today. Luna may be as well, though I don't know for sure. Hearing a fellow hiker's decision to get off the trail reminded me of hearing a fellow Peace Corps Volunteer's decision to go home. Both were hard choices to make. I am sad and bummed about Madhatter's departure but he had to do what was best for him. I am once again reminded of how lucky I am to still be strong, happy, and healthy on the trail with Chameleon.

Today was the summer solstice! I thought I might hike my biggest mile day on the longest day of the year but decided not to after finding a campsite next to water. Being flexible on the trail has been so important to remaining happy.

Day 100

Lots of water on the trail today. I discovered the sole of my boot has separated and now leaks. As a result I was trying to step on as many rocks as possible to avoid the water.

Trail magic with hamburgers was provided this evening! I was surprised to see six hikers there when Chameleon and I arrived because we had only seen two of them during the day. The Trail Angel was a past AT hiker and he had since hiked the Pacific Crest Trail.

Day 101 

I got to shower at the 501 shelter today! It was a bit of a bummer to put on my dirty hiking clothes afterwards but at least I smelled better.

Chameleon and I waited out a thunderstorm at the shelter. People could hardly believe we were leaving because pizza was being ordered (one of two shelters I know of where this can be done). I much prefer sleeping next to a river than in a shelter with a lot of snoring hikers.

I had the feeling of being back in Chuuk today. I decided to relax on the top bunk and laid down directly on the wood. The rain was pounding on the ceiling, and lots of people were talking in the room. The weather was also hot and humid. It was strange and fun to have the sensation of being back in Chuuk.

Day 102 

I woke up to a delightfully chilly morning. It felt like a fall morning when everything feels fresh. The air stayed crisp all day which was a welcome change. Yesterday I spent much of the day with my head surrounded by a cloud of flies. They kept trying to fly into my eyes too, and many succeeded. Thankfully no bugs today!

Tonight I am sleeping in the pavilion in Port Clinton, PA. I appreciate having a free place to stay. There are a lot of other hikers here too. Unfortunately no river to lull me to sleep tonight, there is a road quite close by. Off to buy new shoes tomorrow! I must remember to photograph the present pair before they are retired.

Day 103

I now have new boots! They are surprisingly similar to my last pair but these are Merrills since Patagonia doesn't make boots anymore. I only hiked three miles in the today but I think the boots will break in nicely. At least my right foot is no longer drinking muddy water from the trail.

Day 104 

I hiked to the Pinnacle today! The view was fantastic looking down onto farmland in the valley and across to the ridge I traversed in the morning. There were birds flying and soaring on the air currents. Perhaps they were hawks? One landed on a tree very close by.

The Eckville Shelter had a shower so I'm clean again! There were so many lightning bugs in the evening. I hopIe I am never too old to get excited about the magic of fireflies!

Day 105 

Today was one of the most challenging days on the trail thus far. It was a wet morning, though mostly just dripping from trees. After lunch the rain truly began and so did the rocks. As the wind whipped by, while I was on all fours making sure I didn't slip on the boulders, I couldn't help but feel a little crazy.

I was excited to reach the shelter hoping to get warm and dry. Much to my disappointment it was nearly full with room for one. While Chameleon and I are sure we both could have fit without making people squish too much, the inhabitants didn't agree. I was not impressed... we left to set up our tents. I was grumpy, cold, and hungry.

At least some of the bad Pennsylvania rocks were conquered and I ended the day dry, warm, and fed in my tent before going to sleep.

Day 106 

I got 12 hours of sleep last night! I woke up early, confirmed with Chameleon that motivation was lacking on a wet morning, then fell asleep for two more hours.

The hike out of Lehigh Gap was intense. I once again found myself on all fours on the trail comprised of rock faces and scrambles. Wearing a pack while pulling myself up and over rocks was not fun. I felt crazy again today. I am so thankful it didn't rain!

Tonight I camped in a pavilion behind a restaurant. Other hikers tipped us off about the spot. So much better than finding a shelter full of unfriendly hikers! When we arrived people immediately said they could make room for two more. Thank you!

Day 107

Happy Birthday to my brother! After making a number of attempts I did manage to reach him and catch up for a bit. It will be great to be home and close to family again when I finish the trail.

As I was trying to get service to call my brother, a hiker came walking towards me. When I asked how she was doing she showed me her freshly bloodied knee. I had her come into camp and was able to use my first aid kit to help her clean up her knee. I was glad I was able to help her out! Good luck Warm and Toasty!

I spent all day looking down at the trail today. There were so many small uneven rocks embedded in the path that I could barely look around at my surroundings. After Chameleon humorously lamented our progress I had to sit from laughing so hard. Much to my surprise and delight Weedeater came walking towards us at that moment! We hadn't seen him since Four Pines Hostel in mid May.  It was fun to catch up a bit.

I am excited that tomorrow will be our last day in Pennsylvania before heading on to New Jersey.

Day 108

Last night I was awoken by a crying, whining, sad animal noise. It went on for over an hour. Of course by the time I finally decided to get out my phone to record the noise it stopped. Today Chameleon looked up crying animal videos and we discovered it was a porcupine.

Tonight I am staying in the Church of the Mountain hiker hostel. Chameleon and I arrived around 4 pm which allowed for lots of leisure time. I feel like I have laughed more tonight than I have in while and I love it!

Day 109

So many new things today! A new state in a new month hitting a new milestone of 1300! It feels great to have completed seven states. New Jersey was beautiful today! There were multiple expansive views, less rocks, rivers, lakes, prickly dewberries, and blueberries. I climbed to the top of a fire tower and was surprised that I saw so many trees with hardly any civilization. I never expected New Jersey to be the place I felt most surrounded by wilderness.

At the end of our hike today Chameleon, Weedeater, and I were picked up and taken to a friend's house. I met Sue in a wilderness first aid class just before leaving to hike the AT and offered to take me in when I walked into New Jersey. We had quite a fun ride getting to Sue's house. She encountered a tree in the road and called her nephew to get us. He had a fancy red sports car that felt a little like a clown car as three of us and all our gear were loaded up. 

At Sue's house we were treated to a fantastic meal made by her and her parents. Lots of protein choices, fresh green beans, beans and rice, and dessert! Tonight we get to sleep in a bed while hearing the creek through the open screen door. I'm sure I'll sleep well tonight!

Day 110

Sue dropped us off at the trail this morning and we had a great day of slack packing. The weather was warm with a nice breeze. I saw a few other thru-hikers who all reported bear sightings though I didn't see one myself. The view from the fire tower once again revealed vast amounts of forest and a few lakes.

After Sue's parents picked us up we got our resupply and had a late dinner. Having a kitchen was such a treat! Thank you for hosting! 

Oh, We're Half Way There!

Day 90

This morning was my last morning in D.C. and it was relaxing and productive. I reorganized everything in my pack and posted a blog update.

After taking trains and a bus we set out on the trail at 5:45 pm. Even with an evening start I was sweating profusely on a couple miles of level trail. I cannot imagine how uncomfortable it would have been to hike all day in that heat. It feels good to be back sleeping outside again, listening to the wind blow through the leaves.

The little stream was so green!

Day 91

I experienced trail magic for the first time in a while! A thru-hiker from 2009 had ice cold towels, drinks, cookies, and breakfast sandwiches. So wonderful to get cooled off after so much sweating!

At lunch I met a father and son pair who were very friendly. The son had called to me after I passed them and asked if I was carrying a ukulele. It turned out his dad was a music teacher and used to teach in Maine. What a small world!

I saw the original Washington Monument today. I'm glad that I've seen both! The old one was a lookout tower that (if I remember correctly) was used during the civil war.
 

Day 92

I walked into Pennsylvania today! Now that I have walked through the four state challenge (Virginia to Pennsylvania in one day) I am so happy I didn't attempt, nor have any desire, to try it. My feet hurt more at the end of the day today than any other day on the trail.

 

This morning I was not in the best of moods. I decided to take a side trail to check out a view. Somehow seeing an expansive valley completely changed my mood. Having open space was like a breath of fresh air and it cleared my head. I went back to the trail feeling refreshed and happy.

 

Day 93

The two shelters segregated the hikers by sleep habits!

I have been on the trail three months today! The day started with a bang- there were multiple thunderstorms during the night. My tent was quite wet and muddy on the outside. I attempted to dry it out at lunch but it started raining again before it was completely dry.

I met two more people from Maine today! Luna was slack packing with Madhatter. I had heard about both of them since Georgia. Then tonight I met Moosehead who grew up in Maine. Hopefully with all these Mainers on the trail I'll be able to see them off the trail too.

Day 94

I'm half way there! Chameleon and I are thrilled to have completed half of the Appalachian Trail and are excited to continue on our journey to Katahdin.

This morning I took pictures of mushrooms and other fungus. As I was doing so I wondered how long it would take for my clothes, pack, or body to grow fungus. Due to humidity, sweat, and rain, none of my stuff has been fully dry since leaving D.C. I encountered a new feeling today, my skin was feeling very prickly, as though something was biting it. Nothing was... apparently it was the salt build up from sweat... fantastic.

 

Day 95

This morning I was surprised and delighted to discover a general store on our path where I could attempt the half gallon challenge. I am proud to say I finished an entire carton of mint chocolate chip ice cream! The carton was not a half gallon but just three pints. In order to get the next pint I would have had to pay separately for another pint. I was feeling good and didn't want to make myself sick. I am still proud (and slightly disturbed) that I ate three pints in one sitting.

What did I do after eating that much? I went swimming of course! I couldn't walk by a lake on a beautiful day and not swim. I was even able to shower afterwards! I did notice I felt a bit sleepy late in the afternoon. Perhaps it was a sugar low. Hmm I just realized that even with eating over 1000 calories in ice cream mid morning I ate all my allotted food for the day except one Clif bar.

Such a great set of sculptures

Day 96

Still enjoying the fact that Pennsylvania was not all rocks like everyone said before we arrived. The trail did wind its way needlessly through a bunch of boulders today but it was fun and amusing.

Chameleon and I hiked past a few corn fields before arriving in Boiling Springs. As we were trying to figure out where to do laundry we talked to people in town. A local young guy offered his house as a place to wash clothes. It all worked out and after confusing his younger brother with our arrival we had nice clean clothes.

As we chatted and waited for the wash we got a message saying a friend's aunt and uncle would be able to host us! It was wonderful to meet Mariel's aunt and uncle. They have been terrific hosts. Chameleon and I have separate rooms here and I must admit it feels a little strange!

Day 97
I had the fantastic opportunity to slack pack today. For the first time Chameleon and I hiked part of the trail southbound. Our host dropped us off and we spent the day making our way back to Boiling Springs. It was fun to see a bunch of northbound hikers that we knew walking towards us. Madhatter gave us a heads up that there was trail magic ahead! A fellow hiker had gotten off the trail to spend time with his wife and they made us delicious burgers.

Another hightlight of the day- Scott Jurek, who is trying to break the record for fastest supported thru-hike on the Appalachian Trail, passed us today! Unfortunately I didn't realize who he was at the time.  Chameleon guessed that it was him and he was followed by a small group of people.  I am excited that I got to witness him in his attempt.

I will spend a second night with our lovely hosts and be back to carrying my pack tomorrow.

1000 Miles and Virginia Completed!

Day 75 

I had a full zero today! Lots of protein and dairy. I walked to the lake close by and enjoyed swimming. It felt so good to be outside relaxing, air inside just feels so stagnant.

One of the odd things about zeroing has been the stiffening of muscles. I generally only feel stiff in the morning but it seemed every time I stood up today was a struggle. Going up stairs is easy but going down stairs is painful. I know resting is good but it is painful too!

Day 76 

Another zero today. It was unplanned but good to continue giving my body some rest. Chameleon and I went down to the lake for a swim. It was quite refreshing. Dark clouds were coming so we began walking back to the house. The clouds broke and we got drenched! It was a warm rain and it was good to know we were returning to a house where we could get out of the rain and get dry.

Day 77 

I entered the Shenandoah National Park today! Perhaps it was this area of Virginia people were thinking of when they told me Virginia was flat and a green tunnel. The terrain was very pleasant with gradual ups and downs. It wasn't a solid tunnel but parks were and others felt like a green alley.

Green tunnel 

I found two ticks on me. I felt the first one crawling on my leg trying to hitch a ride. I thought the second one was a bug bite but when I looked under on arm it looked like the tick had just bitten me. I used tweezers and got it off with no problem.

I watched a bird (I think it was a wild turkey) cross the trail with a number of chicks. It seemed to have so many babies! A deer also stood in the trail staring at me for a bit. Instead of running away when I took a step towards it, the deer walked towards me. I clinked my poles together and it went off into the bushes.

What a lot of excitement for one day! It feels good to be back on the trail.

Day 78

Last night when I was camping I heard an animal wander by multiple times. Around midnight Chameleon called out asking if I was awake. The sound of our voices seemed to be enough to deter it from coming closer. I am quite sure it was a bear, though neither of us got out of our tents to confirm it.

As I was walking up the trail this afternoon a noise made me look left. There was a mother bear about 15 feet from me. She saw me and made a hissing sound. I quickly walked back down the trail the way I came and her two cubs climbed the tree behind her. Chameleon was able to see the cubs climb the tree. We talked in calm voices as we passed the mother bear who was hiding in the brush at the base of the tree.

The Shenandoahs seem to be a lively place. I'm happy to be camping at a hut tonight with a number of others hikers close by.

Watching a storm approach while we stopped for lunch 

Day 79 

Happy 900 miles today! It's also the first day of June. I caught a glimpse of a bear as it ran away to hide. I am thankful that running away from humans is still the instinct, that makes my life a lot easier. The terrain is still lovely with gentle slopes up and down the mountains.

Day 80 

Cloudy and foggy day today with cooler temperatures made for good hiking weather. Unfortunately I wasn't able to dry out my tent after the thunderstorm last night. I'll be sleeping in a full shelter tonight because many others have the same problem.

Our food hung from a bear pole while a deer eats dinner 

I played ukulele tonight with Peacedawg who brought a guitar on the trail. Four others came down for what turned into a bit of a performance. It didn't sound the best but it was a lot of fun.

Day 81 6-3

It was another foggy day today with a chilly wind. Oddly enough, the weather on the cliffs and rock faces was much warmer than in the forests by 10° or more.

Some days you just have to imagine the beautiful views

I saw another mama bear today with one cub in a tree. The bear sounded like it was dry heaving when we first heard it. Then as three of us walked by it sounded like it was smacking its jaws. I have seen a lot of deer in the park as well. They seem very tame, don't startle easily, and are slow to head back into the woods.

A trail runner stopped to talk to Chameleon and me this morning. He was training for ultra marathons and offered to take us into town. He ran 22 miles while we hiked seven. He generously gave four of us a ride into town. It was much appreciated because the idea of hitchhiking in the fog seemed quite dangerous. 

Day 82 

Another foggy, chilly day today. Got back on the trail by 10:15 after trying for a hitch for half an hour. No bears today or any deer.

Saw Electric Lizard today for the first time since Georgia! She said she's been two days behind us for quite a while. She told us that a lot of people from our start date are still on the trail too!

I'm staying in a shelter again tonight in an attempt to keep my tent dry. I hope there are not as many snoring hikers here as the last shelter.

Day 83 

Today was the first time I ever left a shelter and headed off in the wrong direction. I hiked south for over an hour before realizing what I had done. I was so frustrated and annoyed with myself. I was able to get enough service on my phone to text Chameleon letting her know what happened as well as a couple other hikers in hopes that someone would check their phone. I hiked 10.5 miles in 3 hours and 20 minutes and just missed Chameleon at our lunch spot. I'll be curious to see how my feet and knees feel tomorrow.

A sign post in the Shenandoah National Park 

Day 84

I saw a snake coming out of a hole in the tree today. I had walked past it when Chameleon called me back to go look. I am certainly not comfortable around snakes, though I can look at them from a safe distance. Later I saw a turtle in the trail. No bears again! Though when I woke up this morning I was told I slept through a bear coming through camp.

Day 85 

1000 miles completed! That is just amazing to me! I think it is important to remember that despite the fact that everyone currently around me has done the same thing, most people would never dream of walking for 1000 miles. We passed a group of day hikers who cheered for us as we walked by. They were impressed and excited to meet real thru-hikers.

Chameleon and I celebrated by going to a hostel. The hiker special included a bunk, shower, laundry, pizza, soda, and a pint of ice cream. I must admit I impressed myself when I ate a 12 pizza immediately followed by a full pint of ice cream. Some day I will tally my average intake of calories on the trail.

The weather today was beautiful again. I must admit I'm a bit nervous about the hotter weather to come because I getting chafing on my back from my pack and sweat. We'll see what happens!

Day 86 

I had beautiful weather this morning and early afternoon. Sunshine and a strong breeze blowing over the ridges. I finished hiking the rollercoaster, a 13 mile section of trail with many small peaks. I rather enjoyed it actually.

The friendly warning for hikers

Late afternoon and evening there was rain accompanied by thunder and lightning. Thankfully I was able to set up my tent during a break in the rain and cook my dinner in another.

I am very excited to be heading in D.C. tomorrow for a few days. It'll be great to see old friends and explore!

Day 87 

We made it to the Appalachian Trail Headquarters in Harpers Ferry! I got my picture taken and my number. I was the 505th northbound thru-hiker to make it to the celebrated half way point in 2015. There are a lot of people on the trail! The actual half way mark is in Pennsylvania about 72 miles further north. 

Chameleon and I took the train into Washington D.C. and made our way through the metro system without a hitch. It did feel strange to be traveling so fast and to be in a city. We arrived at Mariel's apartment and were able to shower before she got home. It was wonderful to see her again. It was hard to believe it had been almost a year since we had last seen each other in Chuuk.

Day 88 

I explored D.C. today! It was smaller and less hectic than I had anticipated. Chameleon and I were able to walk everywhere from Mariel's apartment. First we explored the Smithsonian American Art Museum where there was an exhibit of presidential portraits. I learned I need to review my history.

We then walked past the White House where we were bombarded by a group of Japanese Tourists. We took pictures at the Washington Monument then walked down to the World War II Memorial.

We ended our excursion at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History. Unfortunately it was really crowded and we were feeling a bit tuckered out by then. There was stone money from Yap on display!

It was amazing to me how physically and mentally tired I was at the end of the day. My feet hurt and my back ached. I had walked less than half of a day on the trail and wasn't even carrying a pack and was completely exhausted!

Day 89

I went to the zoo today! Chameleon and I learned from yesterday and picked on one destination for the day. I loved seeing all the animals, though I felt bad that they were living in confinement. Seeing the lion with his big mane was a highlight for me.

In the evening we got together with a group of Peace Corps friends from Chuuk. I hadn't seen Ben and Julie since very early on in my service on 2012 and Mark I hadn't seen since our COS conference. It was amazing to see how easily we all reconnected despite not seeing each other in so long. It was hard to catch up on everything but it was attempted while we also reminisced about time spent in Chuuk. Peace Corps Volunteers definitely share a special bond, similar to the bond felt between hikers.

It was great to spend a few days off the trail and to see old friends! I am also excited to be getting back on the trail tomorrow to continue my journey north.